Sewing-machine.



F. A. BRACKETT.

SEWING MACHINE- APPLICATION FILED-MAY 21, 1917.

Patented Apr. 29, 1919.

2 SHEETSFSHEET I- 1 7621676507 JAM d. NAM/Aw:

F. A. BRACKETT. SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAY21, 1917.

lUNltTED 9TATE$ PATENT @FFMEE.

FRANK A. BRACKETT, 0F MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE, ASSIG-NOR TO W. H. MGELWAIN COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Apr. 29, 1919..

Application filed May 21, 1917. Serial No. 169,917.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK A. BRACKETT, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Manchester, county of Hillsborough, and State of New Hampshire, have invented an Improved Sewing-Machine, of which ;the following is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming part thereof.

This invention has reference to improvemerits in sewing machines adapted for use in attaching lip forming strips or members to insoles.

One object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of suitable construction with means for progressively operating on an insole and a lip forming strip that said strip may be so folded as to provide a dupleX upstanding lip having extensions to receive the lines of sewing stitches and that, subsequent to the sewing operation said lip may be deflected or bent over one of said extensions whereby a channel lip is provided.

Other objects of the invention will appear from the following description.

The invention consists in the novel means for progressively operating on the strip of material to form a lip and for applying and holding said lip to the sole during the sewing process.

The invention also consists in the means for turning, bending or forming said lip,

after its attachmentto the sole, to constitute an inclined or channel member.

The invention also consists in such other novel features of construction and combination of parts as shall hereinafter be more fully described and pointed out in the claims.

Figure 1, represents the invention as ap plied to an ordinary sewing machine adapted to sew a series of lines of stitches, it being understood that the parts of the machine not shown are of any well known construction and operation.

Fig. 2, represents a view of parts of the same at right angles with Fig. 1.

Fig. 3, represents a sectional view of parts of the apparatus taken on line 3-3 Fig. 1 to show the cross sectional shape of the lip member and its relation to the sole at the sewing position.

Fig. 4c, represents a sectional view of por- Fig. 9, represents a bottom plan view of the upper guide member.

Fig. 10, represents a rear end view of the folder guide.

Similar ch. racters of reference designate corresponding parts throughout.

The material to be operated on by this lmproved machine usually consists of a sole A of leather, leatherboard, cork or other suitable material usuallyquite stiff, and a strip of tape B preferably of canvas or other woven fabric for which however any other suitable material may be substituted. In view of the nature of the materials sewing machines for attaching said strips to said soles have usually been constructed with a series of awls 11, 11 operating through openings in the presser foot 12 of the machine at a point reached by the work before it passes to the sewlng position at which the perforations in the work made by said awls 11, 11 are adapted to receive the sewing needles 13, 13. In the present instance three awls 11, 11 and three needles 13, 13 are used as it is desired simultaneously to sew three lines of stitches but 1t is apparent that a greater or less number of said awls and needles may be used and that if the material to be operated on is suitable or if otherwise it is found desirable, the awls may be omitted.

, Mounted in the machine is the usual plate member 14: having the guide 15 in which is slidably mounted the member 16 having the rotary sole edge guiding disk 17 This member 16 is operated by means of the lever 18 pivoted to said member 16 and to a fixed part of the machine and is held in the adjusted position by means of the set screws 19 and 20 if desired. In the movement of sole A through the machine the edge of the sole rides against the rotary guiding disk 17, as is shown in Fig. 2,

whereby the spacing of thelines of stitches relative to the edge of said sole A is determined.

Adjacent the plate member-1 L is mounted the strip folding or manipulating guide and work support which comprises the lower member 21 having the channel 22 which has the shoulders 23, 23 gradually converging in the direction in which the work is fed and terminating at the passage 24 of the work supporting element 25 of said member 21. This work supporting element 25 pref rably is horizontal and in addition to the passage 21 has also the passage 26 both of which are located with respect to the positions orpaths in which the awls'll, 11 and the needles 13 13 operate. Said passages 21 and 26 are open at their ends and the WOIi supporting surface of said element 25 cooperates with the presser foot 12. To the lower strip guide member 21 is secured the upper guide member 27 havingthe depending rib 28 which extends into the channel between theshoulders-23, 23 and is gradually and progressively reduced in thickness until it becomes the thin blade 28" and terminates at a point spaced from the passage 24E.

Mounted on the plate ll is the member 29 having the lip bending or turning finger 30 extending transversely of the passages 24 and 26 and spaced fromthe path of the needles 13, 13 to avoid a'turningor bending of the insole lip during the sewing operation. This spacing of the finger 30 from the path of the needles may depend somewhat upon the material of the insole lip or upon the stiffness or other quality ofsaid lip.

In the operation of the new machine a strip B of suitable material, usually of canvas, is passed through the guide channel 22 of member 21. The forward end of said strip extends into and usually through open ing 24L of the work supporting element 25. In such passage of strip B its cross sectional shape is changed to correspond somewhat to the shape of said channel 22, so that said strip 13 is folded progressivelyto'provide the duplex lip B having the lateral extensions 6, Z) which rest on the surface of the work support 25 while lip 3 extends through the clearance afforded by the opening 24L of said work support in a line to be cleared by certain of said awls 11, 11 and needles 1'3, 13 in the operation 'of the machine.

'A'suitable insole A is next placed and adjusted in the desired position with one of its surfaces bearing against said lateral extensions'b, Z2 oflipB and the presserfoot 12 isbrought to bear against said insole A substantially as shown in Fig. 1 and the sewing machine is operated in the usual manner to effect the perforating of the work by the awls 11, 11 to facilitate the passage and (Z following closely thelines of juncture between the duplex lip B and its lateral extensions 7), b and the line of stitches 6 being spaced from the line of stitches (Z to- Ward the center of said insole In the progression of the work through the machine after said work passes the sewing position and preferablywhilethe soleA stillis subject to pressure'of the presser foot 12 theduplex lip B rides'over thefinger '30 whereby thislip B isbentor folded over the-line-of stitches (Z' to in efiect,.provide a channelmember of'which-lip B constitutes the upwardly inclined wall -to which the welt and upper of" the shoe are subsequently attached.

By the use of th-ismachinethe forming and sewing of the insole strip B'to'the insole 1 A I and the turning or bending of the lip to the desired position can beaccomplished' as a single operation.

Having thus described my invention 1 claim asn'ew anddesire to secure by Lette'rs Patent 1. A sewing-machine comprising means to sustain a striphaving a depending fold and a sol'e'supe'rpose'd "on said strip, means'to form: a'seri'es of lines of stitches at the base of-said fold, and means to turn-said fold overone of Saidlines of'stitches.

2. A sewing machine comprising means tosustain a strip having a depending fold and a sole superposedon saidstrip, means to form a series of linesofstitches at the base of said fold, and means to turn said fold over one of-said linesof stitches in the advancement ofthe work.

3. A sewing machine having asa' stitch forming element a series of laterally disposed needles and comprising means to fold and guide a strip of" material to i constitute a duplexl-ip passing betweena pair of said needles, 1 means i to sustain membe'rs of said strip extendinglaterally-fromsaid lip during the -sewing operation, and means to operate on said lip-tmbendthe same laterally after such sewing operation.

4. A sewing machine comprising means to guide-and "fold a strip inits progression toward the stitching position whereby said strip 4 constitutes a 'lon'gitudinal lip having lateral stitch receiving extensions, means to sustain said lateral extensions at the stitching 1 position, means to prevent upward; de fiection of theworkafter-said work leaves the stitching position, and'nieansto operate on said lip' to deflect said lip laterally.

5. A sewing'ma'c'hine comprising a strip folding means terminating in' a. work support having at the stitching position a clearance for a depending fold formed from said strip, means spaced from the stitching position to operate on said depending fold, and presser means acting on the Work during said operation on said fold.

6. A sewing machine comprising a strip folding means having a channel to receive a fold of said strip and terminating in a work support having a needle passage in line with said channel and of a width to receive said fold in position to clear the needles, presser means for the Work, and a finger extending transversely of said needle passage at a position to bear against and deflect said fold.

7. A sewing machine comprising a strip folding means having a channel to receive a fold of said strip and terminating in a work support having a needle passage in line with said channel and of a width to receive said fold in position to clear the needles, a lip turning member fixedly supported, spaced below the plane of said work support, and a presser guide extending above said work support and adapted to resist undue upward deflection of the work in passing over said lip turning member.

FRANK A. BRACKETT.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Gommissioner of Eatents, Washington, D. G." 

